Few fashionable accessories have survived the centuries like earrings. The Cairo Museum houses x-ray photographs of mummies with elongated earlobes, deformed by the wearing of heavy earrings during childhood. There is also archeological evidence of pierced earrings on Greek, Crete, and Sumerian women as early as 3000 B.C.

Earrings remained fashionable throughout the early centuries – by 2 A.D., gems were being added to metal hoops, loops, and other designs. But fashion has always been fickle. During the early part of the Middle Ages, earrings became rather redundant as respectable women were expected to conceal their hair – and their ears - with barbettes - a stiffened hair band with chin strap.

By the 14th century, hair fashion changed again, but hairstyles which included thick braids covering the ears did very little for the advancement of earrings. Even the Renaissance, known for its abundance of jeweled headpieces, was not earring-friendly, since the ears were usually concealed with a head-band, coiled hair, or by long, flowing curls.

The 17th century brought with it a transition in necklines and more subdued hairstyles, bringing earrings back into vogue, especially for the affluent; a 1610 inventory of Catherine de Médicis, Queen of France, lists nine pairs of earrings set with faceted diamonds and other gemstones.

By the beginning of the 18th century, earrings had officially ’arrived.’ Common forms included the girandole (a cluster or single circular stone or bow surmount supporting three pear-shaped drops), the pendeloque (a marquis-shaped surmount supporting a ribbon bow motif and elongated drop), and the two-stone earring for those gemstones considered worthy of such a setting.

Earrings continued their rise in popularity. At the beginning of the 19th century, topazes dazzled in a variety colors ranging from white to pink to a highly prized yellow. Topazes and their imitations, which included citrines, glass, and foil-backed pastes, were often set in gold or with seed pearls. By the 1820s and 30s, open necklines and elaborately coiffed hairdos that exposed the ears brought large gold hoop earrings into vogue.

Perhaps one of the greatest fashion influences during the 19th century was Queen Victoria. On Feb. 10, 1840, only three years after taking the throne, Victoria married her cousin, Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. When Victoria walked down the aisle with orange blossoms in her hair, she set a bridal fashion that crossed the Atlantic and lasted well into the 20th century.

Queen Victoria’s 1848 purchase of the Scottish estate, Balmoral, her fascination with Scottish culture, combined with a 19th century interest in medieval romanticism, promoted Scotland as a tourist destination. One of the most desirable souvenirs was Scottish agate or Scottish pebble jewelry, a type of quartz and granite that were commonly found in the rugged stone-filled Scottish landscape. The earrings were typically fashioned from sterling silver, the stones set in pendant drops or clusters. Victorian-era examples are highly sought after today.

The relationship between Queen Victoria and Prince Albert was one of great love and admiration – together the couple bore nine children – and thus, when Albert died from typhoid fever at Windsor Castle in December 1861, Victoria remained in self-imposed seclusion for 10 years.

Although mourning jewelry had been produced for nearly 2,000 years, Victoria’s deep mourning for Albert popularized jet jewelry in England. In America, the peak of mourning jewelry came during the Civil War. Similar in appearance to black glass, jet is a variety of fossilized coal.

In the first period of mourning, jet jewelry was the only ornamentation women were allowed. By the second period of mourning, it was acceptable to incorporate jewelry made from gutta-percha and human hair into the wardrobe. Amethysts, believed to bring good luck and protect the wearer, were also very prominent in the Victorian era: the gemstones were affordable by all classes, and had the added benefit of being acceptable to wear in the latter stages of mourning.

The 19th century wasn’t all doom and gloom, however, especially for the well-heeled. Trans-Atlantic travel had become faster, safer, and more affordable, and the combination proved irresistible to many Americans. The souvenir and foreign jewelry in Historic New England’s extensive collection serves as an indication that New Englanders were most certainly enthusiastic tourists. Historical novels by Sir Walter Scott and Lord Alfred Tennyson’s poetry further popularized travel to England and Ireland.

Travel to Italy and later Greece also increased dramatically and became an essential part of the refinement and education of accomplished Europeans and Americans. This tourism also sparked a market for souvenirs and mementos, and because it was small and easily transportable, jewelry was a favorite purchase.

Much of Italian jewelry, including earrings, revitalized ancient art forms such as cameo carving and micromosaic. Florentine mosaics, a process originated in Florence, Italy, used pieces of marble, malachite and chalcedony, and were quite fashionable from 1850 to 1870. In a time when Americans were fascinated by the symbolism of flowers, floral designs were the most prevalent.

Italy, Naples, more specifically, was also the center of the coral trade. Since Roman times, coral has been believed to have the power to ward off evil and danger, and it enjoyed its height of popularity between the years 1840 and 1870 (although large quantities were imported to America until the late 1880s). Coral came in an array of colors ranging from dark red to pale pink; red the most common color, pink the rarest and most expensive. Most was carved before export, allowing retailers and jewelers to incorporate it into a variety of naturalistic and Rococo-themed jewelry forms.

Switzerland was also a trendy destination for Americans, and while enameled watches were the most popular souvenir, Swiss jewelers also created other forms of enameled jewelry painted with peasant girls and landscapes; scenes of the Alps and Lake Geneva on pendant drop earrings were big sellers.

For the adventurous and affluent American, no trip could compare to the hunt for exotic wildlife in places like Southeast Asia, Africa, and India. Trophies like tiger claws were taken home from these expeditions to be made into jewelry. This type of souvenir jewelry was particularly popular in the 1870s and 1880s. It was even sold domestically – in amongst the diamond drops and pearl pendants – by high-end jewelers like Tiffany & Co.

While examples of 19th century earrings aren’t exactly a dime a dozen, they can still be found at shows, shops and auctions specializing in vintage jewelry; tiny reminders of a time filled with royal influence, naturalistic devotion, and trend-setting travel.