Deborah Threadgill Women’s hats, just like women’s clothing throughout the decades, have their own place in fashion history. From a needed necessity to a flirtatious accessory, hats came in all shapes, sizes, materials and price ranges. From being homemade to made by milliners, bonnets — and later hats — changed dramatically over the years. For this article I’ll explore the history of hats from the 1700’s to the 1920’s. The use of head coverings dates back to the Middle Ages when the church decreed that the hair of all women be covered at all times — usually in the form of scarves or veils. In the 1770’s through early 1800’s, a type of collapsible bonnet called a calash, made of strips of wood or whalebone sewn into channels of silk, was made to protect the towering wigs or hairstyles of the day from the weather. Ribbon, tied under the chin, held the bonnet securely. In the 1810’s, straw hats were the “go to” hats. When straw was scarce, a substitute, called bonnet board, made from pressed cardboard rolled and pressed into a design, formed the hat construction. In the 1830’s huge bonnets replaced the straw hats. These bonnets, which hid the wearers from side view, included a draped veil in front to protect the identity of the wearer. Fast forward to the early 1840s where head coverings saw deep-brimmed, oval-shaped bonnets oftentimes adorned with florals on the inside of the brim. Charming and decorative as they were, these fashion accessories limited side vision. Tied under the chin with ribbon, these bonnets offered protection from the sun as well as a much needed jolt of color to the otherwise pale and subdued fashion palette of the day. Indoor caps, called “house caps” were worn indoors by married women and spinsters. Usually made of muslin or other lightweight fabric by the lady herself, these caps could be plain and simple or elaborately decorated. When venturing outdoors these caps were either carried, worn under a bonnet, or immediately put on after the bonnet was removed. By the late 1840s bonnets saw ruched facing and very wide ribbon ties. The 1850’s brought smaller bonnets that were moved towards the back of the head allowing for more hair to show. One particular hair fad, seen only in this decade was the “v” part. Women parted the hair on the top of their head in the shape of a “v”. I have yet to discover how or why that particular hair trend came into being. It remains a mystery. A fad that faded as quickly as it was introduced. Wide-brimmed straw hats arrived on the fashion scene, worn in the summer for informal events and gardening. Bonnets were still adorned with flowers and lace inside the brim and many had a short, black veil at the back. Some bonnets incorporated a bavolet — a ribbon frill at the back of the bonnet — the purpose of which was to cover the back of the neck during the day for protection from the sun. There are some reference sources indicating that this addition was more for modesty as necks on full display were only allowed in the evening. The 1860’s saw perhaps the greatest changes in hat style. Bonnets, if worn, gave way to smaller hats as the decade drew to a close — plumed jockey hats that were worn on the forehead, spoon bonnets with bavolets, pillbox hats, small hats that were tilted forward on the forehead allowing for chignons and pancake hats that included veils. Hats and bonnets continued to be smaller into the 1870’s with bonnets now being tied behind the ears. Flat-crowned hats were worn far forward on the forehead. It would seem that hats, which up to now reigned supreme as a fashion accessory gave way to parasols, heavy jewelry, fans, curly bangs, braided top knots, and full-bustled gowns. By 1875, a new trend for hat adornment came on the scene. One that was met with intense criticism and much debate — the use of whole birds, bird wings and bird feathers. According to an 1875 issue of “Harper’s Bazaar” magazine, the blackbird, especially the merle blackbird of Brazil, were especially favored for hat ornamentation. When entire birds (eyes included) were used, they were mounted to the top of the hat with wires and springs to give the illusion that the bird was real. Numerous species of birds were used for hat embellishment including robins, swallows, bluejays, doves, and even woodpeckers. Plumes — especially those of ostrich, peacock, herons, osprey and egret — were in great demand. It has been reported that it took four herons to make one ounce of plumes. Supplying milliners with plumes was big business, and very profitable. However, not everyone agreed with the practice. In fact, the Massachusetts Audobon Society planned a feather boycott that was met with intense resistance and criticism from the hat industry. It is estimated by some accounts that in Florida alone, 95% of the egret population was decimated for their prized white plumes at the height of the plume obsession. In 1901, early environmentalists pushed then-president Teddy Roosevelt to help pass laws making it illegal to shoot birds solely for their plumes. Speaking of 1875, America saw its’ largest public display of hat fashion at the very first running of the Kentucky Derby. To this day, it is considered a social and fashion faux pas to attend the Kentucky Derby sans a hat. Hats of the 1880’s were moderate in size with a new style making its way into the headwear scene. Called a “flower-pot” or “three story hat” its appearance looked like a tall, decorative inverted flower pot resting atop a shallow brim. Not entirely a “new” concept in style, it was, instead, a revival of the late 18th-century woman’s riding/equestrian hat. The bonnet all but disappeared by the 1890’s and, if worn, was seen mostly on older women as the younger generation saw bonnets as “matronly.” One style of hat which sat squarely on top of the head featured several tall, individual plumes sticking out in every direction. Shallow-brimmed straw hats called boaters, once considered appropriate only for men, were worn by women for sporting and outdoor events. These straw hats reflected a fashion tilt towards more “masculine appearing” women’s clothing which featured ties, bow ties, and white button-down shirts. The early Edwardian era brought a “S” shaped silhouette to women’s apparel with hair piled high atop the head and hats brought forward to cantilever over the face. By 1911, hats were at their largest — some so enormous that by their very weight and width would cause many a woman wearing one to lose her balance with many hat brims extending beyond the woman’s shoulders. In order to secure the hat to the head, hatpins — many in excess of a foot long — were skewered through the hat into the piled hair. Not only did these pins keep the hat in place but they could be used, if needed, to ward off unwanted advances of a would-be admirer. Brimless hats called toques were also popular during this time. |